Must-have Emergency Gear
Tow strap
100' of heavy-duty rope
Good spare tire
Can of aerosol "flat repair"
Tire Repair kit
Basic vehicle repair tools
Good shovel
Engine Coolant/Quart of Engine Oil in Plastic container
Air pump/compressor or bicycle tire pump
2 Gallons per person of extra water
Comprehensive First Aid Kit
Jumper Cables
Baling wire & Duct Tape
Good gloves
Ground Cloth or Tarp
Heavy duty Flashlight (spare batteries & bulb)
Tire Gauge
Shop Towels and/or Roll of Paper Towels
Winch & gear (highly recommended for solo treks)
Cellular Phone
Many of these items and Jeep Wrangler accessories can be 
found at ExtremeTerrain - Jeep Wrangler Parts & Accessories ... 
including tow straps, tire repair kits, tire gauges, 
and winches.


Wax on, Wax off

Got a stubborn bolt that's rusted or seized?  Try heating it up with a blow torch and apply candle wax to the treads.  For really stubborn bolts you may have to reheat it a few times and re-apply the candle wax to the threads but as wax is applied to the heated bolt threads the wax is sucked down into the rust just as flux pulls solder into a pipe joint.  As the wax cools it acts as a lubricant, helping to free up the bolt.  A recent conversation with a friend in the racing business had the pleasure of an old spark snapping off with the threads still lodged in the engine.  Heating the plug and block around the spark plug and applying candle wax a few times allowed what was left of the old plug to be extracted with an extraction tool.

The Jeep Wave!

An honor bestowed upon those drivers with the superior intelligence, taste, class, and discomfort tolerance to own the ultimate vehicle - the Jeep. Generally consists of vigorous side-to-side motion of one or both hands, but may be modified to suit circumstances and locally accepted etiquette.

Know the Rules of the Wave, click here!

Reseat a Bead:  If you have unseated your tire on the trail, you can usually get the bead reseated without removing the wheel and tire from the vehicle.  Jack up the vehicle until the tire is off the ground, make sure there is no dirt or rock between the rim and seat, and push or pull the tire on the rim as best you can while a buddy fills the tire with compresses air or co2.  You might try a little water or soda, or whatever to lubricate the bead surface.  If the bead is really stubborn or you blew both inner and outer beads, you can remove the tire and wheel, put a ratchet strap around the circumference, and tighten the strap just enough to press the tire towards the rim.   Use just enough air to get the bead started, remove the strap before you try to seat the bead and fill the tire completely.


When to use High and Low Range: 

4H: For traction when the area isn't steep, when stuck in sand, extremely slippery conditions, snow, ice, rocky, gravel roads, gullies, extremely muddy areas and ridges.  

4L: On wet, slippery surfaces, passing through sandy areas, on rough trails, through shallow water, rock-climbing, climbing steep hills, through mud and descending steep hills. 

Additional Tips: Engage low-range before you need it.  Don't operate 4WD on hard dry surfaces.

Air Filters:  There are 4 basic kinds, Paper, Cotton, Foam and Dry Flow Synthetic.

Paper:  You might be unpleasantly surprised to find that there isn't much that will filter better.  They have been standard equipment on vehicles for years.   The downside is when they get dirty, their effectiveness remains constant, but airflow decreases.

Cotton:  The most common, is usually pleated to create a more effective filtering surface.  Generally, this filter is a good idea that works well.  It lets more airflow into the engine than a paper element.

Foam:  Traps a good amount of dirt by using oil to trap and hold dirt particulates. It is reusable but can be easily over-oiled.

Dry Flow Synthetic:  It's new, made of 100% synthetic plastic that is almost impossible to displace or tear.   It uses no oil and is reusable.  The best of all worlds.

Off Roading basics...

Pack appropriately. Pack supplies, tools and extra gear, just in case. Be sure the gear is secured inside the vehicle so it doesn't bounce around while you're off-road.

Know the underside of your vehicle. Look under your vehicle and learn where the lowest-hanging parts are located so you can avoid damaging them.

Learn your angles. Study and know your approach and departure angles—as well as your breakover angle—to avoid damaging your vehicle.

Scout tricky terrain on foot. Don't hesitate to get out of the vehicle to examine, up close, the terrain and soil conditions. And be sure to scout out what's on the other side of a hill ahead of time so there are no surprises.

Go slower than they do in TV commercials. Drive "as slow as possible, as fast as necessary." Remember to use the gears to efficiently manage engine power, braking and torque.

Don't wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel. Sudden steering wheel movements can result in injury.

Create a mental picture. Look ahead and visualize the paths you want your tires to travel. Follow those paths.

Drive straight up and down hills. Avoid diagonal lines that put the vehicle in a situation where it might roll.

Wear your seat belt and be safe.

 Grounds and Connections:

Every electrical device on your Jeep is connected to ground to complete the electrical circuit.   Some are connected by wire, some are bolted directly to the chassis.  Connecting directly to ground eliminates the need for a negative wire running from the device to the chassis.   An example of this is your starter.   When installing a component that uses a ground strap, remove the rust and debris with a grinder to expose a place on the frame to attach your negative connection.  Use a star washer and tighten the strap to the chassis.   Coat over the completed connection with a rust in-hibiting paint, this will seal out any moisture and oxidation which would lower the amount of current that's able to flow through that ground point.   Also keep your battery terminals tight and free of corrosion!


CJ  '46 -'86
DJ  '56 - and up Postal
FC  '56 - '65 Forward Control
KJ  '01 - and up Liberty
LJ  Wrangler Unlimited
MJ  '86 - '92 Comanche
SJ  FSJ or Full Size Jeep, Wagoneer, Gladiator and M-715
TJ  '97 - and up Wrangler
VJ  '48 - '50 Jeepster
WJ  '99 - '04 Grand Cherokee
WK  '05 Grand Cherokee
XJ  '84 - '01 Cherokee
YJ  '87-'95/ '96 Wrangler
ZJ  '93 - '98 Grand Cherokee


 Know The Code!

Jeeps equipped with a Chrysler computer ('91 and later models) and fuel injection have a "fault code" feature in the engine controller. This allows the engine controller to detect certain "faults" in the system. The codes indicate the result of a failure, but do not identify the failed component directly. The codes are displayed by the CHECK ENGINE light flashing a sequence of two-digit codes. 

To display the codes...

Universal Joints:  Some rigs use greaseable joints and some do not.  According to most driveline guys, greaseable joints-properly and regularly lubed will generally outlast the non-greaseable types by a wide margin.  The myth that non-greaseable joints are stronger is just that, a myth.  If you install a non-greaseable joint, pack it with the best grease available at installation to help it last longer.  Always use the best grease available for u-joints.